Wednesday, April 2, 2014

If There's a Will, There's a Wave

When 2014 opened, I promised myself that it will be a year of travel, exploration and discovery - or revisiting old people, places and experiences. 

Summer is fast-approaching and with that, I thought I needed to try a new water sports. Surfing came as an instant solution as some of my EON mates are also into the activity. Without hesitation, I joined an intimate trip to Baler, Aurora, which is currently making louder waves as a go-to surfing destination in the country.

One day stay. Three one-hour surfing sessions. Five people. Plenty of instructors, fall and lessons. 

Here are some of my learnings while battling with the tides of Baler:


That Awesome Moment When You Can See and Hear the Waves on Your Feet 

Paddle Out: Always keep moving forward. Never cease to go further whether the waves are calm or disruptive . Stretch those arms and paddle out left and right. My surfing instructor would consistently coach from behind, "paddle lang kuya, paddle ka..." especially during high tides and it was really effective. Instead of panicking, facing the waves through paddling prevented me from damage -- I was not slapped hard nor wiped out. 

Choose the Right Waves: Not all waves can help you learn surfing. Ironically, the bigger and harder-hitting waves are the ones that will train you to be strong, fearless, and determined to complete one long ride. And when you ride the right wave and reach the shore, you just want to face bigger waves even more!

Not All Waves are Scary: True enough. There were a number of times I felt as if I was in a deep part of the sea but when I paddled, I was able to touch the sea floor. It may seem funny but when your stomach is full from a buffet lunch and you only had ten minutes of nap, little waves can really come across as frightening.

Never Let Go of Your Board: For non-swimmers like me, the best and only advice to remember is that no matter what happens, never let go of your board. That foam or fiber is your best friend above and below sea level. It is the medium that brings you to a faraway place and gets you back to where you came from. Your surfboard gives you a magic carpet ride, but it involves a lot of skinny-dipping, humping, and positioning (and I am talking only to people who rode a surfboard before).

Instructors are Inevitable: Have you ever known someone who has inspired you despite their age, status, gender, race, etc.? Well, I found one brave young man in Baler who at the age of 14, was my source of confidence in the sea. Yes, my instructor was way younger than I am, yet he paddled when
my arms were weak, he pushed my board so I can stand and ride even if he was swallowed by the angry tides, and he was always on red alert when I am acting like a child. Shanlee is a very inspiring man. He, alongside other surf instructors in Freedom Surf School, were among the bravest, happiest, and kindest groups of young men I met. 


If not for instructors like the Freedom Boys, people in the Metro who may have the money but are not stress-free, can never have enjoyed such an exciting water activity.

Pain is part of the Game: I am currently recovering from bruises and cuts in my legs, coupled with over-worked arms and chest. Surprisingly, I never thought of quitting surfing. I like what it does to my body and I know that pain is all part of the learning process. And as consolation, I just take these as reminders that I once did something new and felt really good about it.

Stand Up... Just Stand Up: Fall numerous times if you cannot help it, but the golden rule of surfing is to stand up - just stand up. By standing on the surfboard, one can learn how a ride can take away so much worry and anxiety. Again, there may be more times when you will fall, but as long as you stand up -- knees shaking, arms and chest hurting -- no ride will ever go wasted.

A Long Training Fuels a Long Ride: I had three one-hour sessions within my 24-hour stay in Baler. My first session in surfing was the most memorable because of the surprise and satisfaction that my first complete ride gave me. I have to tell you though that it was during low-tide. During my second try, the tide was crazily high and the sea seemed like a giant washing machine, bleaching everything that comes inside it including people. And because of inadequate exercise and rest, I was also dissatisfied with my third and farewell session. 

Looking back on the rides I could have completed and from observing the surfers who braved the tides alone, I realized that surfing is not an overnight success story. To efficiently ride a wave is like spending years in the seminary, sleepless nights drawing blueprints and sketches, and training to write or draw from childhood -- it requires repetition, discipline, commitment and a goal.

It's Okay to Fall, Just Don't Drown: In surfing, every fall is equivalent to a brave attempt. People may overlook it, but sometimes effort weighs heavier than results. It's okay to fall. After all, you're stepping on water, not on concrete. However, it is equally important to fight every fall and don't drown yourself with fear of falling again. Enjoy the moment. Feel the water. Cooperate with nature. Cliche as it may sounds, but take every ride as if it's your last.

That Leash that Binds You and Your Board, Creates Wonders: As long as I can remember, I was never unafraid of water. I was always on the safe side of the pool, the usual walker in the sea. And like children, I am conscious of what's beneath my feet in the brownish sea floor. But while surfing I learned to trust the medium that will keep me safe and floating - the leash. It prevented me from a number of drowning incidents especially during the high-tide session (when I can't touch the seabed) and it was my top-of-mind every time I fall. To reiterate, the leash that binds me and my board is responsible for so much happiness and carelessness I felt while surfing.

After a Long Day of Surfing, Don't Forget to Play Carelessly with the Sea: Few minutes after our third session, I realized that I have not yet plunged into the sea for the longest time. So before I leave Baler, I thought that I should experience it bare - this time thinking only about me, the water, and how grateful I am to experience such pleasure. I could have avoided this tanned face, neck and shoulders had I not swam after surfing, but who cares? It was the best exfoliation my body has undergone in years. And boy, it was refreshing!

Promise Yourself to go back to Your Surf School for a Better Experience: My epiphany before leaving Baler: I missed it already! A lot of thoughts, wishful thinking and images entered my mind that compelled me to go back in Baler as soon as possible. In the end, I promised myself to return and train harder, be braver, and be more accommodating to unfriendly, loud waves. 

I know that in time I can be adept in surfing.   

Just a thought: if you can change every word 'surfing/ surf" with "life" in this post, how would you have seen the activity then? Would you think of it as exciting or boring? For me, I went to Baler only to surf; fortunately I got back in Manila to ponder on the wonders of this thing called.....

Tara, friends. Surf tayo! Mamatay tayong fresh!


The First Morning. The Breakfast that is Masarap na, Sobrang Tagal pa

This is it. The First Session (when I performed my best)

 Lucky Five: Chance Passengers and My Seat was Totally Uncomfortable

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